Siena's Palio Horse Race
Il Palio di Siena is an event that rivals any in Europe. Known locally as simply Il Palio, it is a bareback horse race around the Piazza del Campo in the heart of Siena. This spectacular event takes place every year on July 2 and August 16 every year is a sight to behold, but it is not just a horse race, the preceding pageantry cannot be missed either. Interested in holidays in this area? Why not browse our range of accommodation in Siena today!
The Palio is run to celebrate the miraculous apparition of the Virgin Mary near the old houses that belonged to Provenzano Salvani.
Il Palio is not just a horse race though, it is a race where ten horses and riders, dressed in the representative colours of their contrade, (district), want to win for pride and the right to display the silk pennant for a year. Originally, there were over fifty "Contrade"; but only seventeen remain. The ten that compete in the historical pageant compriseseven by right and the other three are selected by a draw.
Each of the seventeen districts of Siena invests heavily in their efforts to win. The inter-district rivalry starts with the race various districts challenging each other by sending marching bands through the rival districts in the middle of the night. Eventually, each neighbourhood enters a horse and rider for the race. The evening before the race it is estimated that 25,000 people eat outside, as each district holds an extravagant banquet to “rehearse” their sure-fire victory celebration.
In the morning, each horse is led into the contrada church to be blessed. After this most solemn event, the city literally erupts, as the excited spectators flock to the beautiful shell-shaped Piazza del Campo.
Of the 50,000 people that attend il Palio the vast majority will be fighting for a good view from the middle of the square.
Only a lucky few souls will have reserved seats on the terraces that line the perimeter of the 15th-century palazzi.
A magnificent pageant, the Corteo Storico, precedes the race, which attracts visitors and spectators from around the world. On Festival day is the square becomes a race track, with a ring of packed dirt around its perimeter. From about five o'clock, representatives of each neighbourhood parade in historical costume, each bearing their individual banners.
Later, the horses and jockeys arrive, each arrival being cheered passionately by their supporters. The jockeys now attempt to take their places behind the rope starting gate, but really they are taking the time to make secret deals to defeat their patrons’ rivals. The competition is so fierce that fist fights have been known to break out between the jockeys and rivals have even stooped so low as to ambush jockeys, and drug their horses.
The main event of Il Palio, the actual horse race, starts about 7.30pm. The starter lowers the flag and the horses finally break away from the starting line and shoot off around the track at breakneck speed, totally oblivious to the screams of the crowd. No one cares if, in the pandemonium, a jockey is thrown from their horse because the first horse to cross the finish line wins, with or without a rider. Which is only right as it is the horses who are the focus of the event.
The three times around the dirt track usually lasts about 90 seconds. There is only one rule to this race, a rider may not interfere with the reins of another horse.
If you do get the opportunity to go to this spectacular event be sure to arrive at the Piazza del Campo before 4pm to get a good view. And remember that the streets that surround the event area are closed off well before the race begins.
If you prefer to have a seated vantage point from which to watch the pageant you could try asking around in the cafes and shops in the square but expect to pay over €200 for the privilege. If you cannot get there, or did not have a good view the races are televised live and then repeated throughout the evening. If you are in town during the few days preceding the race you may get to see the jockeys and horses trying out in Piazza del Campo, almost as good as the real thing!
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